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Urea in skincare
Dual-function: humectant at low % and keratolytic exfoliant at high %; a key NMF component that declines with age.
Appropriate for both AM and PM depending on concentration. At 2–10% (humectant range): both AM and PM fine. Excellent hydration with no photosensitivity. At 10–20% (keratolytic range): PM preferred to allow overnight exfoliant action; can cause mild stinging. At >20% (urea cream for calluses): targeted PM application.
What it is
Urea (carbamide) is a nitrogen-containing organic compound that is one of the principal components of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), constituting approximately 7% of NMF. It has a unique concentration-dependent dual function: (1) At 2–10%: potent humectant. Holds moisture in the stratum corneum and improves texture; also a mild antimicrobial; (2) At 10–20%: begins to act as a keratolytic. Breaks hydrogen bonds between corneocytes, enhancing desquamation of thick, rough, or hyperkeratotic skin (dry heels, elbows, ichthyosis); (3) At 20–40%: strong keratolytic used medically for nail avulsion and severe ichthyosis (prescription use). Unlike AHA exfoliants, urea does not significantly increase photosensitivity, making lower concentrations usable in AM routines. Penetration enhancer. Increases absorption of co-applied actives. Clinically validated for atopic dermatitis and diabetic foot care. Safe at all cosmetic concentrations; may sting on broken or raw skin.
The facts
| Category | Humectant / Keratolytic / NMF Component |
| Typical use | Morning and evening |
| Concentration YARAI treats as a full dose | 40% |
| EU Cosmetics Regulation annex | II |
| EU status | prohibited |
Why the amount matters, not just the presence
Most ingredient checkers tell you whether something is in the bottle. That is a smaller question than it sounds. Urea at 40% and urea at a trace level are not the same ingredient in any way that affects your skin.
An ingredient list is ordered by quantity, so position carries real information. YARAI reads that position and scores accordingly, which is why the same ingredient can land differently in two different products.
The honest limit: a list gives order, not percentages. Estimating concentration from position is an estimate. It is a better estimate than ignoring position, and it is still an estimate. We would rather tell you that than let a number look more certain than it is.
Regulatory status
Prohibited in EU cosmetics (CosIng Annex II).
Common questions
What does urea do in a skincare product?
Dual-function: humectant at low % and keratolytic exfoliant at high %; a key NMF component that declines with age.
How much urea should a product contain?
YARAI treats 40% as a full dose for this ingredient. Below that, the ingredient is present but is scored as contributing less. An ingredient list gives you the order of ingredients, not their percentages, so this is an estimate read from position rather than a measurement.
When should I use urea?
Appropriate for both AM and PM depending on concentration. At 2–10% (humectant range): both AM and PM fine. Excellent hydration with no photosensitivity. At 10–20% (keratolytic range): PM preferred to allow overnight exfoliant action; can cause mild stinging. At >20% (urea cream for calluses): targeted PM application.
Check your own products
Point your camera at a product. YARAI identifies it from the label, finds that product's full ingredient list from published sources, and scores it. No barcode and no box needed, which is how it handles imported and small-brand products.
Concern level, category and thresholds on this page are read directly from the same data the YARAI app scores with, so this page and the app cannot disagree. EU figures cite Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. Last built 2026-09-09. Nothing here is medical advice.